Lard – pig fat – fell out of favour after the Second World War and has struggled to get back in our kitchens ever since. Now, however, chefs are raving about the unrivalled crispness it gives to fried or roasted ingredients, its high burning point and the short, flaky texture it adds to bakes. The obvious way to celebrate lard is with a Lardy cake. Traditionally made with or without currants, depending on where you live, our modern version has added richness and sweetness from eggs, milk and a mixture of colourful and delicious dried fruit.